The Isle of Man sits dead in the smack of the Irish Sea, almost equidistant from the coastlines of Ireland and the U.K. As I later learned, it is part of the British Isles, but technically not British, or Irish for that matter. It is not under the rule of the Queen, not a member of the EU, and has its own identity entirely – stamps, currency, government, etc. Its low income tax and “relaxed financial regulations” make it a tax-shelter haven. And no joke, the native Manx cats have no tails.

As is often found on the course, golf isn’t just about the drive; sometimes it’s the approach that counts. Castletown’s first impression was one of the most unique I’ve encountered. As our chartered plane approached the island from above, a Y-shaped peninsula came into view. The terrain looked a blend of dirty brown and sage green. It took me only a minute to realize those pastures weren’t fields at all but fairways, our fairways!

Our second approach to the course via the sweeping lane that separates a shallow beach from the golf course reflected the unpretentiousness that often accompanies good links golf. No big fancy signs, no guardhouse to keep out the rif-raf, and no elaborate landscaping either; just the sea on the left and the course on the right. Castletown Golf Links is no slouch of a course by any stretch of the imagination. In its remoteness one may think that no course designer worth his shirt would have ventured this far to layout a championship venue. Wrong. The course was originally designed by Old Tom Morris himself and revamped by Mackenzie Ross, Turnberry’s re-designer, after WWII.

THE DIMINUNITIVE THIRTEENTH

One trip around the links and it is evident why two legendary course designers have put their stamp here. The panoramic views of the Irish Sea are endlessly breathtaking. After all, the course is virtually surrounded by water on all four sides. The Langness Peninsula also lacks the large sand dunes that are commonly found on seaside courses. While it makes for some fantastic views, it also provides no shelter to break the unrelenting wind that will howl for all 18-holes. This is my promise to you.

The teeth that are built into Castletown Golf Links are given even more of an edge since my focus was often led astray. I admit that originally I had a tough time recalling a few of the holes on my singular trek around. One hole which did not suffer from my lapse in memory was the par-3, 13^th. It is a prime example of how a hole need not be long to be difficult. At 133-yards in length, from the back tee no less, looking at the scorecard one may think it is a birdie opportunity. Wrong. I can assure that it is downright impossible to hold a shot on putting surface with the prevailing helping gale.

THE SPECTACULAR SEVENTEENTH