
The multitude of textures found in Norway’s natural landscape is majestic. The sea, a murky shade of brown, is never far from view. On a particularly hot afternoon I was persuaded to go swimming in the fjord, Norwegian for a small sea but akin to a lake. The water was refreshingly frigid and surprisingly clear. Paddling around in four feet of water my eyes could make out patches of seaweed on the sandy bottom which assuaged some of my fears of what was lurking below. After my dip, I layed down on a large rock to heat myself back up to 98.6 degrees. The warm, pebbled granite left small pot-marked impressions on my back. Soon the discomfort of my post drove me off and I decided that the shoreline was better suited to walking than relaxing.
A 15-minute trek up the coastline from the camping site and one reaches the town of Stavern. It is a quaint “beach-town” where as described above the “beach” is hard and gray but the quirky shops and fish restaurants provide the required charm. The harbor was full of masts from the many sailboats that were moored to the docks alongside a few traditional wooden skiffs. The town’s main attraction was a refurbished shipping vessel which would have been typical of a commercial boat in the 1700s. The masts and rigging were an intricate spider-web of rope and pulleys. It was difficult for me to picture how many strong seafaring men would be needed to raise the sail for full flight.
It was by strange coincidence that just this very vessel would be put into use on Saturday, July the 4th for the reenactment of a sea battle from 1716. Our crew (Dana, Gregg, Rick, and I) scampered up to a rocky ledge for a better view of the action. There were three frigates entering the harbor and we could see the defending army, conveniently dressed in red uniforms, ready with their guns on the shore. The drums rattled in a slow and steady beat across the water. Once the fighting started, the thuds were silcenced by cannon fire. The noise echoing through the air was remarkable and the smoke surrounding the action was dense and thick. The ground artillery and approaching vessels jockeyed for just the right position to fire on the opposing side. A fiery explosion on land sent flames shooting out of a wooden shanty; a direct hit had been made by the sailors. Independence Day will never be the same at home.
Larvik Golf Club, which like Stavern is about a 2 hours drive south of Oslo, was proud to host the SAS Masters. As one of three players able to attend the ultra-exclusive garden party hosted by the owners (written with a hint of sarcism but not without extreme gratitude) they had especially wanted to hold a Ladies European Tour event there. Larvik GC, they told us had a strong female presence at the club, from the membership right up to its goverance. Upon reflection it became clear that the golf course itself was also female friendly. The collection of holes was unusual, (7) par-5s, (6) par-3s, and (5) par-4s, but there were very few forced carries and it seemed players of all ability, short-hitters and long, could have an enjoyable experience there. The thrashing the week’s leaders gave on those par-5s was impressive and scores were remarkably low. The 50-plus cut came at (-1) which was unusually low. Normally my T-58th would have been good enough to survive the cut. The specifics regarding this catastrophe are unimportant however. Se la vie!
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