THE TWELFTH AT GOLDEN EAGLE
Golden Eagle Golf Club, Ladies Open de Portugal
Rio Maior, North of Lisbon, Portugal
June 8th – 14th, 2009
In a world saddled with the burden of progress, speed, and efficiency there are few places exempt from the inevitable hand of change. As best as I can tell, Portugal seems to be one of those places. The country is frozen, not like an ice cube but like a locked joint that is showing signs of arthritis and old age. It was my third trip here, twice having been on the southern coast of the Algarve. My impressions of the region are lukewarm at best. The weather is consistently beautiful but the untamed construction seems out of character. Even when matured, I doubt it will raise itself in my esteem. However this year I was pleased that the organizers sent us north to the capital of Lisbon, despite its need for a good, general scrubbing. If I were to find culture in Spain’s sister surely this was where I needed to be.
—
THE TENTH
It is a little unusual to be writing about golf in Portugal and not be talking about the Algarve. The development surrounding Golden Eagle is still an eye-sore but the golf course was well matured and in beautiful shape despite a few pesky rumors to the contrary. The middle-six (Holes 7 through 12) at this Rocky Roquemore design are the ones to look out for. As a medium length, par-4, the 7th proved to be a real round stopper. Only perfectly placed tee shots had any chance of finding the putting surface as players have about a 10-yard gap in between towering, bushy lollipop trees to hit their approaches to the green. The 9th and 11th holes, both par-4s, needed a well-curved right-to-left drive to hit the fairway before a lenghty second to small, well-bunkered greens. Conditions were a bit softer this week which made the greens more receptive to my low-flying 5-irons. The par-3, 12th strikes the fight-or-flight trait. It is a classic heart-in-your throat, “I have to hit to an island green” gut-wrenching experience. Sure its only an eight-iron, but do you really know what the wind is doing up there?
—
I was a little more sure of myself off the course. In addition to the usual suspects of Ben, Dana, Gregg, and myself, our crew was joined by my parents fresh off the plane from America. The annual parental pilgrimage has taken place in a variety of locations, first England, then Finland, next France, and now Portugal. They are wonderful sports to travel with since my mom would have learned some native phrases (obviously not a problem in England), which she uses very enthusiastically with the locales. At times I am mildly embarrassed but she has proven to be very useful. Also useful is her research on the local sights. She knows what to see and more importantly how to get there. Maps are her forte and armed with my impeccable sense of direction we were a navigational power house.
OBIDOS, PORTUGAL
First on the list was the fortress town of Obidos which lies just to the east of Lisbon. The thick stone walls are impenetrable by arrows, armies, and automobiles alike; cars may not pass into town. Originally the miniature city dates back to the 9th century when it once was a seaport. Gazing out over the hills, long ago cultivated into farmland, I could not imagine where a large river once ran and had since been silted in by sand and dirt. A Roman aqueduct that stretched out into the distance should have provided some direction towards the water source. One of Obidos’ main selling points is that you are able to walk the entire perimeter of the city from above on the fortress walls that has protected the town for centuries. The same stone and mortar now underfoot has withheld an array of projectiles flung against it. And yet present day, tourists such as us are permitted to stroll leisurely along these walkways. I can’t help but wonder W.W.A.D (what would America do) in preservation of a similar historical site. Here there is no admission charge and no railings despite a few annual deaths from falls off the walls. Do the residents think we’re crazy to keep walking?
There were also moments when I didn’t feel the tourist. As I strolled the country streets in the evening with little else on my agenda than an old-fashioned walk I almost felt Portuguese. A wrinkled couple working in the vegetable garden took a moment from their toils to eye up this stranger passing. Bright flowers and potted herbs dotted the window boxes along the way and I picked a few sprigs of rosemary for a marinate I was to make later that week. Meal time in our typical Portuguese rental house proved to be a bit interesting since we had two small gas burners to feed six hungry people. In the end we managed with a little creativity and a lot of patience. There was a small outcove off the back patio that housed a primitive grill and seemed a reasonable option to cook on. With smoke in my eyes and two ordinary forks in my hot hands, I silently cursed its small size and the paltry fire. Gregg, always ready for feeding time, was cussing right along with me. But everything worked out just fine and we even had enough smoldering coals afterwards to roast marshmallows and assemble ’smores for dessert.
In its food, in its people and in its way of life, Portugal is clearly a place where simplicity and tradition triumph. People here do things the way they have always done them. Customs I thought extinct exist in plain view everyday. A withered widow, clad from head-to-toe in black, walking up the hill with the aid of a cane was a common scene. A shepard hearding a flock of sheep across the pasture with two dogs leading the way. A grandfather fixing the axel of an old, dusty, red car out in the front yard. The happy voices of the neighborhood children sang well into the night. They were playing outside in the streets without a T.V. or video game system in sight. On our last day, one of the mothers knocked on the door with a basket full of tiny, red plums. It was an extremely kind but simple gesture. She spoke only Portuguese and I, only English. Once again, a large smile and a nod were the international words of thanks.
A SUNNY DAY AT THE COURSE
One individual deserves special mention, in a language we both understand, for his service and dedication to Team Terebey. I had to say my good-byes to Captain Koerner (you know him as Ben) as his time ran out and he had to go back to his life in the States. It was a scheduled parting but he will be missed and his efforts were very much appreciated. It is not easy to keep a player happy and positive when she is going through a rough patch. He accomplished this task beautifully. We both agree that I’ve got some great golf to look forward to and as a team we just ran out of holes. But I’m close, really close, to right where I want to be (on the golf course).
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Great feedback Laura. Keep giving us the great reports. Have fun and enjoy the tour.
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